Leonore Summer cruise 2025
Introduction
This year, wanting a chance to range a bit further than a two week cruise can offer I decided to split three weeks of cruising into two legs, leaving Leonore at a suitable location between the two legs. I researched a few likely possibilities and aimed for either Tralee or Dingle. Of course the weather would have to co-operate, but nothing new there, and we could always reset the timing of the home leg to maximise progress and comfort.
Crew: Dan Taylor, David Hammond and myself, Alan Pritchard.
Sailing Log
Outward Leg
11/2 June Pembroke Dock – Kinsale 147nm, 33 hrs Wind SSE/S/SW F2 -4
Dave and I drove down to Hobbs Point, car loaded up with provisions and remainder equipment at 6am, then went out to bring Leonore in to the pontoon. Dan walked down and joined us just as we walked back up to the car park. After locating all the stuff in its chosen places on board we pushed
off, windless, at 7:15 just after high water, perfect for a push down the haven picking up wind as we went, and along under Skokholm’s cliffs and on the way to The Smalls which we reached just after lunch. Next steps were to cross the TSS lanes first northbound, then southbound both without encountering any close traffic then in the evening the wind improved with a little rain. As dusk fell we had a dinner that had been thawing all day, and prepared for night. The wind improved and we made 5/6 knots through to morning when once again the wind fell and a bit later we encountered variable mist and fog, but we confirmed that we were approaching Kinsale as we occasionally glimpsed a few racing yachts ghosting in the mist. By mid-afternoon we had arrived at the Bulman rock, entrance to the river leading up to Kinsale. Unfortunately, on closing the visitor pontoon we were shoo’ed away as the whole pontoon had been booked by racing boats, however after a few phone calls we found that Castlepark marina which we had never used before could fit us in to their very last restricted berth, so all was well for an overnight stay alongside. There was even an open pub, ‘The Dock’ a bit basic - no food, but plenty of Guinness, so we had to cook on board in a gap between two pub sessions before taking to sleeping bags for a well-earned rest.
13 June Kinsale - Glandore 32 nm 9 hrs Wind S-SW 4, W4
We got up a bit late, and took advantage of the excellent marina shower facilities before beginning to think about how we would leave the rather tight berth we had gratefully driven into yesterday evening. Unfortunately time was going on and we had missed a chance to drift out backwards on the tide so that with tide pushing us back into the berth and not having a reverse gear we would need to pull out on a rope from the opposite uptide berth. A detailed plan was hatched by Dan so that with
the help of other berth holders we would pull out and then Dan would pivot us round so that we faced out and could pick him up in the process or possibly pick him up later. All went well and we got out and turned to exit but as Dan had predicted, as soon as I saw the opportunity to exit, I couldn’t resist going for it, relegating picking him up to a second step. This was accomplished by pulling up alongside the Customs ship where Dan had got permission to cross the deck and board Leonore, but not before he had been made to don a lifejacket whilst on a government vessel! Anyway, all-aboard we made off down river and headed out for the Old Head of Kinsale. Racing boats were gathering for start positions and before long they caught up with us and eventually took our lead as we rounded the Old Head. The race turned out to be the two-handed Celtic Triangle race going to the Fastnet and then Treguir before returning to Falmouth. The first boats surged away on spinnakers, but gradually the slower boats took quite a while to pull ahead of us and it was very entertaining being in the middle of this fleet, however we had a slightly different course, to pass Seven Heads, Galley Head and the Doolic Rock before turning down to Glandore where we motored to make sure we would make the pubs in time to get dinner as we have found that they close quite early here. All worked out well, pumping up the dinghy on our way up the river and taking a visitor buoy, but for future reference the pubs close food orders at 8pm.
14 June Glandore - Baltimore 20.7nm 5.5hrs Wind SW 4/6
Not much wind this morning but a lovely day and beautiful location as we made our way west of Eve Island and as we got to Shiela’s rocks the wind started up and we tacked out to sea, making out towards the spectacular jagged Stag Rocks. Taking the inside option in Stag Sound, between mainland and the Stags, the wind gradually increased and we had to reef, by degrees - genoa first reef, then the main and even genoa second reef to make the progress upwind comfortable.
Although it was still quite early, all things considered – safe location, pubs, good provisioning, showers, we plumped to go into Baltimore and call it a day. Circling Diarmuid’s Atlantic Boating pontoon we couldn’t make contact so took one of his moorings and headed off by dinghy for showers. Thinking it would be worth the long walk to Casey’s for a class fish meal, we got there but were turned away as they had an event massbooking! Back to the harbour and dinner in the Algiers Inn.
15 June Baltimore – Fastnet Rock - Castletownbere 38.5nm 9hrs Wind west moderate going northwest
So up early, sails up in harbour and all set as we sailed out of the narrow entrance, destination Mizen Head and the west coast. The west wind made it a beat and we took the opportunity to take the first
leg out to sea, passing close to the Fastnet Rock before tacking inland and then back out again far enough to clear the Mizen quite wide as the wind had come up and moved a bit northwest, meaning at trip direct to Dursey was not possible and so we made for Piper sound, leading up into Castletownbere harbour, where we anchored in the harbour out of the way of traffic. We were quite late so we took advantage of a fish and chip tent to take dinner, and then took a walk along the north shore to a fuel station before returning to town for drinks in the famous MaCarthy’s bar.
16 June Castletownbere – Dursey Sound – Portmagee 42nm 9hrs Wind SW4 going NW6
We were under time pressure today, governed by the tide stream north through Dursey Sound, 17 miles west. However, when the anchor came up there was piles of mud infused with filthy oil and diesel all over the foredeck, necessitating several rinses of the deck to get somewhere near clean. So a bit late we motored into Piper Sound and then got the sails up to tack out into the Atlantic again, managing more or less on port tack all the way to Dursey Sound where we turned north to pick up the stream just in time to slip under the aerial runway linking the mainland with Dursey Island - even the cows use its cabin to get to the island pasture! Emerging into Kenmare River we had several options and were going well in a west wind as we were treated to fabulous views of impressive large
rocks out in the Atlantic, the Bull Rock off Dursey head, then the Skelligs, dramatically steep huge things they are. Skellig Michael featured in Star Wars which adds to the attraction for the punters who take tour boats around them. The wind gradually built and in the late afternoon we didn’t fancy carrying on around Bray head and into Dingle bay, and so we opted to enter the safe harbour at Portmagee. This was very hard to navigate into by eye, and so a fair amount of dependence on GPS was employed to ensure safety from the various rock arrays in the entrance. Gradually the various turns required began to make sense and we found ourselves in a straightforward river the north side of which is Valentia Island, and had a go at picking up a mooring. However I was not really happy with the mooring’s safety and so we moved up to the harbour right next to a low bridge, that was built with a swing capability allowing passage to Knightstown, but that’s no longer operational. This was a tricky location in a very strong westerly wind competing with tide/stream to keep swinging the boat this way and that, however the anchor held really well and shortly we were able to mount a dinghy trip ashore to Portmagee which features quite a few hotels and eateries supported by customers for the tourist boat trips out to the Skelligs. It was a fraught night being so close to the bridge in such a strong wind, as if the anchor gave it would take about 15 seconds to be swept onto the bridge only about 10 feet above the deck.
17 June Portmagee - Dingle 20.8nm 6hrs Wind NW 6, dropping, veering to SW 3
Come morning we still had to wait on the wind dying down for a few hours before venturing out to sea in a brisk southwesterly and heading north around Bray head and into Dingle Bay as the wind dropped and became a bit fickle in direction making progress a bit frustrating. But as the afternoon went on a good southerly force 4 established itself propelling us nicely into the very shallow Dingle Harbour, leading to the marina where we docked on a holding pontoon while I went up to the office, to conclude the first phase of our cruise, well chuffed with progress exactly as it had been so long planned and we were directed to a vacant finger berth.
Overdue showers all round, then we then set off to the touristy town for well-earned beers, the obvious start venue being the quirky Dick Mack’s offering quite a few good local ales as well as the usual stouts. Lovely to sleep tied up so safe compared to last night!
18 June Day off Dingle
So, finally a day off after seven sailing on the trot so lots of relaxation in order – coffees out etc. along with setting the boat up for a rest and all sorted and topped up ready for a straightforward take off on our return from a bus/ferry trip back home starting tomorrow. The evening was capped
off when we chanced on a very entertaining music duo with a varied repertoire in a small ‘front-room’pub we then spent most of the evening in. On request they performed ‘green fields of France’ to finish our evening as we left to find dinner.
3 week Interlude - Leonore berthed in Dingle Marina
Homeward Leg
David couldn’t make the return, but Dan and I caught the night ferry Isle of Innisfree from Pembroke Dock and thence by bus right across Ireland to Dingle arriving late afternoon and getting the shopping done ready for a start next morning in promising weather. Dingle seemed very crowded but we found dinner and a few pints before retiring once again on Leonore to repair the lost sleep on last night’s ferry trip.
9 July Dingle – Ballinskelligs Bay 32nm 9.5hrs wind WSW/S 3-4
A quick settle up with the marina (very reasonable) and we got local help moving out backwards from our berth before powering away and out to the channel across the harbour and then out into
Dingle Bay where we raised sails and headed southwest to Bray Head in a nice F4, if a little tight on the course. Although the angle eased at the Head, the wind began to fail but it was still pleasant
going, gazing out at the Skelligs and trying to figure out the purpose of an interesting building taking shape up on Bray Head. After a while the wind turned north and after some rolling southwards past Puffin Island we opted to take a reach east into Ballinskelligs Bay where we found a fine safe anchorage round the back of Horse Island. Better still there was an enticing little harbour close enough for a dinghy trip to get us ashore for an explore. Choice spot here turned out to be Cable
O’Leary’s Hotel with a lovely garden leading to the beach and a good view over to Leonore quietly at anchor. Food and drink were suitably agreeable – Ballinskelligs bay was a lovely new find!
10 July Ballinskelligs Bay - Dursey Sound – Castletownbere 31nm 8hrs wind W-S 4-5
A lovely sunny day greeted us in the morning, and we decided to linger a little as Dursey Sound wouldn’t be in our favour till afternoon. Dan got on with remote working, while I set about replacing the pushpit VHF aerial and cable which had given up operation earlier in the year. All done, we weighed anchor and set off round Horse Island and into the bay proper, where a pleasant and useful breeze was found and we meandered through a few islands and down to Dursey Sound. We had considered stopping at the holding anchorage in Garnish Bay and taking the Sound first thing in the morning, but things looked good for a last minute slip through Dursey and then a reach across to Castletownbere for the night. This went fine except for failing wind as we approached Piper Sound , the route up to harbour. This time as it was very calm we decided to tie up to dubious looking buoys in place in the harbour, rather than put our tackle down into the oily harbour floor. Getting ashore a bit late today we went straight for a pub crawl, broken up by having huge take-out pizzas which effectively stalled the subsequent beer consumption rate.
11 July Castletownbere – Crookhaven 27.1 nm 6hrs wind SE 2-3
We had another morning off for me to get fuel and provisions whilst Dan fired up the computer and
got in some more remote working, so that we left in late morning for Piper Sound and out into the Atlantic headed for Mizen Head. Going was sporadically good with a fitful easterly wind. I spent a blissful few hours dozing on deck while Dan helmed south. Approaching the Mizen we took it at our outside waypoint, as the wind began to back to east so that we were tacking the few miles along the south coast towards the entrance of Crookhaven. Engine on, we cut through the gap in Alderman
rocks by GPS and ran down haven to take a buoy in our customary position opposite O’Sullivan’s bar. Ashore we had a top class dinner in the sunshine al-fresco at the Nottage Bar.
12 July Crookhaven – Baltimore 22.4 nm 6.75hrs wind SE 2-3
Wind was very light this morning and we took it easy tacking east into Roaringwater Bay, past the Calf Islands mixing it a bit with a race fleet past Cape Clear Island and as far as the Bullig shoals, where we were able to take advantage of the southeast-going tide through the dangerous Gascanane sound using engine to stick to a safe route guided by GPS. It’s one of those places where you might be tracking about 40 degrees off from where you’re pointing, with underwater rocks around.
Once out in the clear on the south coast we had a simple beat up to Baltimore harbour and once in, made our way to Atlantic Boating’s pontoon, but were again not able to raise them by VHF or by phone - shame because there appeared to be space available. Anyway, we took the second best option taking one of AB’s buoys and resigning ourselves to a dinghy trip ashore for all the amenities on offer, showers being most urgent. Later we found the Algiers Inn had stepped up its menu quality from a previous burger base and we were suitably pleased. Still we always have to finish off with a drink at Bushe’s Bar, to set up for an early start tomorrow..
13 July Baltimore – Kinsale 48.2 nm 12.5 hr wind SE –SSE F3-4
We set off at 0530, getting sails up while heading out of the harbour, and then took off eastwards in the southeast wind, rounding the Kedge rock and plotting a course for Old Head of Kinsale, passing Galley Head, Seven heads and eventually the Old head before turning in north to run up to Kinsale. Here we found that once again, all places on the KYC pontoon were taken, this time a westnorthwest gale was predicted for the next couple of days so we took a river visitors buoy whilst we conferred with Castlepark marina who knew us from a few weeks ago. They found us a place, once a huge yacht of 100ft+ weighed anchor and moved off to allow various re-arrangements so that we were able to take a place further back in the marina out of the gale as best as could be arranged. Phew! and we found ourselves once more in ‘The Dock’ pub, no food, but nice to be out of the gale. We got a taxi to Kinsale town and had an interesting dinner in the quirky curry house before walking back to ‘The Dock’ for a final few drinks with the locals before settling down to see the gale out.
14/5 July Kinsale Stormbound
Unfortunately at our berth we had no electric power, so Dan on his computer had to do the best he could with boat battery power and the odd top-up with engine charging.
16 July Kinsale – Cork (Crosshaven) 28.2nm 7hr wind ESE F4-5
Finally the weather began to abate on the third morning, though it took its time, as did the boats on the main pontoon where we planned to get a substantial battery recharge on mains, however the weather was not complying we weren’t really fussed. One of the irritating issues was that there was an anticlockwise wind pattern with a southeast curl between where we were and the eastbound course back homewards, but we hoped this would not last or that we could move further out from the coast to pick up a more southerly airflow which would be ideal. On top of this problem, moderate rain was forecast for many hours. Armed with a plan and unwarranted optimism, we set off down river to the entrance and began to beat out to sea hoping for a windshift that would allow us onto a reach or at least a continuous starboard tack. However after several hours of trying in totally unrelenting rain, the wind remained stubbornly east-southeast and we were getting nowhere except fed up. Come early evening we threw in the towel and decided to call in at Cork/Crosshaven to recoup energy and reconsider. It was still raining as we pulled in to a dismal looking Salve marina, a regular location for Leonore, preferring it to the more formal Royal Cork YC marina. However, it gradually dawned on me that something had changed – I went up to Wieze’s office and saw that it was totally deserted and I remembered from last year that there had been talk of it being sold – obviously this had now happened and I was very upset about it. Everything was still working, though, and we got electricity and showers, but I was very sad to see all the familiar facilities no doubt in line for ‘professionalising’ under the Royal Cork ownership. I don’t suppose it will be possible to just breeze up and moor where we want like it’s been these last fifteen years or so, plus get great advice about two-stroke engines from the staff who were go-kart enthusiasts. Anyhow, in the Oar pub we had ourselves a summit meeting and found that the weather would be altogether better for us tomorrow, so we went out to top up supplies and found it had nearly stopped raining, so back to the pub in better spirits, planning an early start.
17/8 July Crosshaven – Pembroke Dock 131.2 nm 30.5 hrs wind SW – W F4 -2
We duly set off at 0715 after morning constitutionals, probably sadly for the last time in those basic but very familiar facilities. Sails up in the main channel then out along the gradually diverging coast as it headed northeastwards as we set a direct eastwards for The Dock 115 miles on. A mist arose and AIS picked up another yacht catching us up, which we eventually got sight of as she slowly overhauled us and disappeared into the mist. Gradually we picked up speed and began to knock off the miles very satisfyingly. As dusk fell we were around the M5 Meteo buoy where it seems the Fishing boats love to congregate and trawl this way and that around it. One trawler in particular the Spanish ‘Vaya con Dios’ seemed to stick to a collision course as we struggled to pass ahead for about half an hour and eventually we had to call them and to our relief they replied that we would be fine to pass ahead as they would adjust their trawl to suit. Phew! It would have been hard to guess how far behind to pass and clear the nets. After this all became much quieter through the night towards the Smalls TSS. Now we were faced with much faster vessels crossing our path, but luckily there wasn’t very much and we slipped across easily and concentrated on getting into a safe position south of the Smalls lighthouse. Now in the daylight we were both very tired and took turns to sleep as the route back to St Anns turned into a tricky downwind tack in an annoying swell, but eventually we crept into the Haven where the going got easier and by early afternoon we were tied up on Hobbs Point pontoon.